I'm wondering what the collective opinion is as to the safety
of the Arri PL mount. I have always felt that it should have
had a safety clip. The only problem I have had is that my
HR 10-1 zoom vibrated out of the mount while shooting from
a camera car. It was save by the lens support & 6.6"
matte box. I only realised that it had come loose when I zoomed
wide & everything went very soft.
However, on a colleague's shoot recently in Sydney a 10mm
Ultra Prime came loose, again on a camera car, and, having
no lens support or matte box it came all the way out & disappeared under the wheels of following vehicles with the
obvious disastrous result.
Having seen many things vibrate loose in various situations
I tend to tape whatever I can, including the PL mount, in
such situations, particularly nose mount helicopter shooting.
The Arri 435 instruction book has a picture of the locking
tabs on the 'inside' of the mount which, although light, would
put the weight in a vibrating situation on the unlocking side
of the mount, aiding the self unlocking process. I always
like to see them on the outside for that reason. As I said,
a safety clip should have been a mandatory inclusion.
Drill a hole in one of the ears and safety wire it to a static
part of the body. This is what we do on roller coaster rigs,
and it works flawlessly.
Richmond, VA USA, home to 20 roller coasters!
David Wakeley of Sydney wrote :
>The only problem I have had
is that my HR 10-1 zoom vibrated out of >the mount while
shooting from a camera car. It was saved by the lens >support
& 6.6" matte box.
This is a new one to me. I've owned two SR and 2 35 BL's over
the years and have worked with dozens of other cameras from
rental houses with Arri Standard, bayonet and PL mounts and
have never had a problem.
Talk to Arri. I didn't think vibrating out was possible. Did
you put the lens on you yourself? Is it possible that it was
not twisted all the way. There should be a line on the lens
and on the camera to show when the lens is on properly. I'm
in the U.S so I don't know the number for Arri in Sydney but
if you have a problem getting it contact me and I’ll
get it from Arri here for you. I'd be interested in what they
Live long and prosper
Mik Cribben-Steadicam operator
David Wakeley writes :
>I'm wondering what the collective
opinion is as to the safety of the Arri >PL mount. I have
always felt that it should have had a safety clip.
I agree, and actually made one for the 35 III. On the 35 III
the mount assembly is held onto the camera body by four Allen
(recessed hex) screws.
We made an aluminium piece that pivoted on the upper right
Allen screw, when facing the camera. (The factory screw had
to be replaced with a longer screw.) When the mount was turned
to lock the lens in place the aluminium piece was swung down
against the PL mount locking ring tab. I left it on a camera
we were using overseas and never made a second. Since I never
had a mount loosen up in flight, the locking device seemed
We then went to the 435 so the old gizmo wouldn't work because
of the differences in camera bodies. But in principle it seems
to be a straight forward matter to design something similar
that would work on the Allen Screw that keeps the 435 Pl mount
from being unscrewed too far.
>However, on a colleague's shoot
recently in Sydney a 10mm Ultra >prime came loose, again
on a camera car, and, having no lens support >or matte box
it came all the way out & disappeared under the wheels
of >following vehicles with the obvious disastrous result.
Ouch! After hearing that, I think I will go back to the drawing
board. As I said, I've never had a mount loosen, but it may
just be a matter of luck, or a function of the amount of camera
>Having seen many things vibrate
loose in various situations I tend to >tape whatever I can,
including the PL mount, in such situations, >particularly nose
mount helicopter shooting.
Me too. I also prefer the Bell Jet Ranger or Long Ranger for
nose mount work. It's very reassuring to be able to see --
hopefully -- the camera and lens through the chin bubble.
Not to mention being able to check for bugs.
>As I said, a safety clip should
have been a mandatory inclusion. Any >opinions?
It's beginning to sound like a very good idea.
IA 600 DP
I would also worry about all sorts of screws throughout the
camera. A friend of mine shot an entire day mounted on a car
w/ his SR, and a lot of screws ended up loose(mag hinges,
etc) There is always locktite for prevention. As for lens
mount locks it would be great to hear solutions.
I just saw a shot from the top of a jetfighter's tail-the
jet flying through valleys/mountain range(British footage?)
All the aviation film footage is very amazing. All through
the cold war development days there were some stunning images
made - the Shuttle onboard cameras for instance, just think
of the vibration and safety measures.
But I suspect combustion engines vibrate more than a flying
plane-mounting an Eyemo and Bolexes on my 2 stroke triple
yielded high vibration fuzzy images at high speed(narrow shutter
would have been a good choice if they had it)Perhaps better
damping in a different mount system would help. I didn't do
a high speed test w/ the Eyemo(someday soon) I'm not too inclined
to mount my Aaton on vehicles for long periods.
There was a "Legends of Motorsports" TV program
shot around 1979-cameras mounted on F1 cars (talk about vibration...)
>Drill a hole in one of the ears
and safety wire it to a static part of the body
Make sure you drill the ear with a new Titanium nitride bit
or a new cobalt bit. Otherwise you are in for the long haul
drilling that stainless ear.
>Drill a hole in one of the ears
and safety wire it to a static part of the >body. This is what
we do on roller coaster rigs, and it works flawlessly.
Brilliant! Thank you, Max.
Ears can be purchased from Arri so you don't have the rental
Cos coming after you.
Drilling them is no prob if you use a little cutting oil,
IA 600 DP
For putting 3's on roller coasters and heli nose mounts, I
would capture one of the ears with a little loop of safety
wire and spin it down to the matte box rod or the socket for
the matte box rod on the dovetail. This way I didn't have
to drill the ear and did not end up with a piece of loose
tape flapping (I had a bad experience with flapping tape on
an SR on an aerobatic biplane).
Safety wire spinners (pliers with a helical rod through them
that spins the pliers when you pull the knob at the back)
are on the order of $35 each and come with some safety wire
- it is actually faster for me to safety wire a lens on and
cut the wire when we land than to tape and untapped the mount...but
that's just me.
Most motorcycle mechanics and all aviation Airframe and Powerplant
mechanics have safety wire pliers in their toolboxes.
LA based erstwhile camera rigger - current VFX nerd - future
John Babl writes :
>There is always locktite for
I learned about Loctite <tm> from the great Mitch Bogdanowicz,
who built all the then-exotic gear for Leacock, Pennebaker
and Maysles in the Olden Days. Now I never leave home without
it. If you do a lot of jet travel or aerial work (or if you
rent out your gear), treat your hardware to this stuff and
you'll never have a screw loose.
Mitch once built me some Huey mounts I'd designed for a shoot
in Vietnam. Before I left for 'Nam he gave me a tube of Loctite
as a going-away present.
>I just saw a shot from the top
of a jetfighter's tail
I once mounted a 16mm Arri S -- with a 5.7mm Kinoptik -- on
the tip of a competition glider's tail. Well, not exactly;
I built a tall tripod mount that got the camera up at the
same height, but clear of the tail itself, and was strapped
around the aircraft's fuselage. Used either locking nuts or
Loctite on all the screws (yes, gliders do vibrate!)
>I suspect combustion engines
vibrate more than a flying plane
It's said that high-frequency jet-engine vibration can loosen
Dan "owns no Loctite stock" Drasin
Marin County, CA