Interesting web page Walter. But as he says, if you calibrate
it doesn't matter what percentage gray card you use. Just
like the Zone System, I base my calibrations on dmin of the
printstock. I adjust to get the maximum (visual) black that
is possible before reciprocity sets in.
Steven Poster ASC
>Interesting web page Walter
But as he says, if you calibrate it doesn't matter what percentage
gray Card you use.
I thought it was interesting too, hence why I shared it. But
like everything else in life we find that references are never
written in stone and there is room for error. Or as the article
states =8Cwhatever method of setting exposure works for you,
I just wanted folks to see that 18% grey technically is a
figment of the imagination, or of any one manufacturer and
not another, or as the article states, someone made it up,
>Just like the Zone System, I base my calibrations on dmin of the >printstock.
I adjust to get the maximum (visual) black that is possible
before reciprocity sets in.
And you'd be more accurate there than a person assuming 18%
Producer, Director, Creative Director, Cinematographer
HellGate Pictures, Inc.
BlueSky, LLC www.film-and-video.com
Yah, interesting article Walter. My Canon D60 does the same
thing, shooting a grey card using the built-in metering and
using a separate exposure from my Sekonic produces about a
1/2 to 1/3 stop underexposure, but I thought it was the camera's
firmware that was automatically underexposing the image in
order to prevent highlight burnouts. The reason behind this
thinking was that the earlier firmware on my Canon (1.0.2)
didn't produce this underexposure (it shot 18% grey at the
middle of the histogram), but when I upgraded to 1.0.4, then
I had to deal with this "slight" but rather annoying
underexposure problem. It's nice to know I guess that it's
actually a mis-calibration in the metering and not some engineers
over at Canon thinking I need a bit more overexposure latitude,
so they're dialling it in for me automatically.
Post Production Artist
Virginia Beach, VA
Jason Rodriguez wrote:
>but I thought it was the camera's
firmware that was automatically >underexposing the image in
order to prevent highlight burnouts.
A digital camera should have a setting that automatically
sets the exposure (or indicates it, in manual mode) so that
no pixels are blown out -- so that you retain the entire dynamic
range for post-shoot correction. Of course, you could ignore
that if you want to blow things out, obviously, especially
if the sensor's dynamic range isn't as wide as that of your